A Skeptic's Take on Raw Food

I love this article by raw skeptic Jason Kessler over at Food Republic.

When Is It Okay To Eat Raw Food?

An exploration of that which can never be cooked

By Jason Kessler 

A wise man once said “Oh baby I like it raw. Yeah baby, I like it rawwwww.” That man was Ol' Dirty Bastard. Since I'm neither old nor dirty, I don't share his sentiments. I've never been much of a fan of the raw movement. Sure, I like a good salad every now and then but a low-temperature meatless world is not a world in which I'd like to live. So when I was invited to M.A.K.E., the new home of all things raw in the LA area, I was more than a little skeptical. In fact, I scoffed. Audibly. I know there's a ton of health benefits to eating raw, but I couldn't get past the nagging question that kept popping up in my head: Can raw food actually taste good?

M.A.K.E. comes from Matthew Kenney, who's made his name on raw cuisine with a Food & Wine Best New Chef award and some Beard nominations along the way. Now's he got both restaurants and cooking schools in Chicago, Oklahoma City and Santa Monica, with more on the way. Unfortunately, the menu looks like an Onion parody of a raw food menu. The first thing listed is a dish centered around “tree nut cheeses,” and after that you get crunchy word combos like “sous-vide portobello” and “cashew yogurt.” As you can imagine, I was ready to hate it. Then something weird happened – I tasted the food. And I liked it.

The turning point came when they set an order of kimchi dumplings in front of me. Traditionally, you can't make dumplings with raw food because you have to cook the dumpling skins to make then, um, edible. M.A.K.E. doesn't cook anything so they had to come up with an alternate, and their substitution is pretty genius. They use a super-pliable wrapper made with dehydrated coconut. I honestly didn't care what it was made out of. I just wanted more. The only thing that matters to me is whether or not something tastes good and these dumplings, my friends, tasted great.
In retrospect, I haven't had a lot of experience with raw food. I've gone down the vegan path far too often and I've had issues with vegan food for years. I never understood why anyone who consciously eschews meat would want to dine on products made to taste and look like meat. Seitan, tempeh and the rest of those meatstitutes (that's the mash-up of meat and substitute, not meat and prostitute) are heavily processed and always end up making me feel like I've consumed a bowling ball. It's amazing that in our new gluten-averse culture, vegan restaurants are peddling gluten like it's the second coming of pork. Realistically, if you've decided not to eat meat, why are you pretending that you're eating meat? All those vegan “buffalo wings” and “sausages” and whatever else you can put into quotation marks are just poseurs. 

Raw food doesn't have that problem. Sure, it pretends to be dishes you know and love. The “lasagna” on the M.A.K.E. menu is really just a stack of sliced vegetables with some pesto, but at least all the ingredients can legitimately be classified as food. As the meal came to a close, I found myself with a new attitude towards going raw. Can raw food actually taste good? You bet it can and, oh baby, I like it raw. Yeah baby, I like it rawwwww.

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Raw Buckwheat Bread Recipe

From Russel James The "Raw Chef"



My Mediterranean Almond Bread caused quite a stir when I posted it, getting me some very kind comments on various discussion boards. It’s so fantastic to know that something I’ve created has helped someone find a piece of the puzzle that they so needed to help them live a healthier life, in this case, an alternative to bread. That tactile feeling of holding something when eating (get your head out of the gutter!) is very important to me, as it is to a lot of people.

When I mentioned, what seems like ages ago, that I was developing a nut-free version of my bread I had quite a few emails asking me for the recipe. So here it is, and I have to say I’m very pleased with it and have been enjoying mushroom sandwiches for weeks now, they’re so great – once you have the bread made it’s so quick and easy to build a sarnie! Enjoy!

Raw buckwheat bread
Makes 18 ‘slices’
1/2 cup olive oil
1 1/2 cups sun dried tomatoes
3 cups sprouted buckwheat
1 cup flax meal
3 1/2 cups peeled courgette (zucchini), roughly chopped
2 cups apple, cored and roughly chopped
3 tabblespoons lemon juice
2 avocados
1 large onion
1/2 cup minced parsley

- Process the olive oil, sun dried toms, sprouted buckwheat, courgette, apple, lemon juice, avocados, onion and herbs until thoroughly mixed.
- Transfer to a large bowl and mix with the flax meal by hand. The reason you do this separately (not in the processor) is that you are likely to have too much mixture for the size if the processor at this point, and when you add the flax meal it will become quite heavy and sticky and overwork your machine.
- When mixed, process the whole batter in the machine again, but in small batches to achieve a light fluffy texture.
- Divide the mixture in half and place on Paraflexx sheets on dehydrator trays.
- Use a spatula to spread the mixture evenly to all 4 sides and corners of the Paraflexx sheet. If mixture is too sticky you can wet the spatula to make things easier. With a knife score the whole thing into 9 squares.
- Dehydrate for 2 hours and then remove the Paraflexx sheets by placing another dehydrator tray and mesh on top and invert so that your original sheet of bread is upside down. That will allow you to peel the Paralexx sheet off and continue to dehydrate the underside of the bread.
- Dehydrate for approx 8 hours more (do this overnight so you’re not tempted to eat it before it’s ready) or until bread feels light in your hand. If the pieces don’t fully come apart where you scored, use a knife to cut them.


Cashew Mayo
1 cup cashews
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped onion
1/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon agave
- Blend all ingredients in a high speed blender until smooth.

For the mushrooms pictured…
- Cut portabello mushrooms into thick 1cm wide strips. Marinade them for a couple of hours or overnight in equal parts of tamari and olive oil.
- Arrange them on a dehydrator sheet and dehydrate overnight.